Christmas in Tallinn – exploring Estonia’s fairytale capital

Tallinn is one of Europe’s most picturesque cities, but also one of the lesser known cities on the continent. It had been on my European bucket list for quite a while, so I was very excited to finally get the chance to visit!

Arriving in Tallinn

Please note: at the moment, there is a lot of ongoing transport works within Tallinn, including changes to roads, buses and trams. There is current no tram service to Tallinn Airport until 2025. It is advisable to check your route before travel. The latest information can be found at www.tallinn.ee

Bus and coach: bus numbers 2 and 15 go from Tallinn Airport to the city centre, leaving at regular intervals throughout the day. If you are looking to go further afield from Tallinn, Lux Express offers services south towards Riga and other Baltic cities.

Taxi and rideshare: Tallinn has a wide selection of rideshare apps. From experience, Estonia’s own Bolt is your best bet for easy and affordable rides. There are also local taxis, which can be more expensive.

Rental cars from all major international companies are available at Tallinn Airport.

There is currently no tram service from Tallinn Airport to the city centre. Bus replacement services are in place until 2025 (see above). Details can be found at www.tallinn.ee

Getting around Tallinn

Walking is the best way to get around the city centre – most museums and tourist attractions are within a small area and easily walkable. Public transport can take longer than walking in some instances, particularly in the Old Town.

Trams and buses are very good in terms of quality, prices and frequency in Tallinn (although services are subject to change at present). If you have the Tallinn Card, public transport is included within the charge, however, if you choose to not buy the card, public transport is easily paid for with contactless card payment normally at the front of the bus or tram.

Things to do in and around Tallinn

Toompea Hill and Castle

Toompea sits above the rest of Tallinn, offering views across the Old Town and newer parts of the city. Here you can find the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, Toompea Castle and Riigikogu (Estonian Parliament). Depending on which direction you approach from, it can be a steep climb onto the hill. When you visit, don’t forget to visit the Kohtuotsa viewpoint on the eastern side for fantastic views!

Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and the Riigikogu

Vanalinn (Old Town)

The Old Town is the highlight of Tallinn at any time of year, but it especially comes into its own in the Winter. Surrounded by the city walls, the historic centre of Tallinn is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which describes it as one of the best preserved historic centres in northern Europe. One of the best things to do is simply to walk around between narrow streets and wide boulevards losing yourself in the unique setting that the Old Town offers. One particular road to go and find is St Catherine’s Passage (top right photo). During or after this, enjoy some of the Old Town’s many coffee shops, restaurants and wine bars.

The Viru Gate (below), built around the 14th century, can be found at the entrance to the Old Town on the eastern side.

Town Hall and Town Hall Square (Raekoja plats)

Located in the heart of the Old Town, Town Hall Square is home to markets, open air festivals and the Christmas Market in the winter. The square is dominted by the Town Hall on one side, and surrounded with coffee shops and restaurants on all other sides. It is a common meeting point and is considered the centre point of the city. The square is a good spot to get your Instagram photo, especially when it’s covered with snow!

One fun fact is that it is thought that the world’s first Christmas tree was erected in this square in 1441!

Vabamu Museum of Occupation and Freedom

Vabamu tells the stories of the occupation of Estonia both by Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union through the eyes of normal Estonians. There are a lot of audio exhibits, so allow more time for this museum than some others if you want to fully take in the information. The museum costs €14 per person or is free with a Tallinn Card.

Estonian Maritime Museum at Seaplane Harbour

This historic seaplane hangar hosts an interactive and interesting museum about maritime history. The flagship exhibit is a submarine, located within the hanger, that you can go inside and explore (middle photo). Make sure to go outside at the back of the museum where you can see an Icebreaker and other ships. The museum costs €20 per person or is free with a Tallinn Card.

Estonian Maritime Museum at Fat Margaret

This branch of the Estonian Maritime Museum offers an insight into the Estonian maritime industry and its history. The museum has a large collection of models of maritime vessels all the way from the medieval period through to the modern freight ships. Fat Margaret refers to the tower that the museum can be found within. The museum costs €15 per person or is free with a Tallinn Card.

Tallinn City Wall

All around the historic Old Town is the Tallinn City Wall. About a mile (or 1.8km) of the wall remains standing, with 26 towers and 2 gates preserved. There are several spots where you can climb up onto the walls and enjoy the views of the city, including at Kiek in de Kok and in between the Nunne, Sauna and Kuldjala towers. Parts of the wall were first constructed over 700 years ago and have been very well preserved.

Kiek in de Kök

Comprising of a museum and a 500-metre long set of walkable fortifications, the Kiek in de Kök museum provides an interesting insight into Tallinn’s history. Built in 1475, the main tower provides a good view over the Old Town of Tallinn and is a good place to get your bearings for your trip! The tower, fortifications and museum costs €16 per person to visit or is free with a Tallinn Card. The museum, alongside all Tallinn City Museum locations, are also free on the first Sunday on every month.

Tallinn TV Tower

Tallinn TV Tower is the highest open-air platform in the Nordic countries at 170 metres, with a 360 degree view of Tallinn and the surrounding countryside. There is also a small exhibition at the bottom of the Tower. Whilst in winter, it is certainly a cold experience on the open-air section, it is well worth doing on a clear day. Tickets cost €16 per person or free with a Tallinn Card. The Tower is easily accessible by bus and car from the city centre.

Maarjamäe Kommunismiohvrite Memoriaal

This memorial commemorates the 75,000 Estonians either murdered, imprisoned or deported during the Communist years of Estonian history (1940-1991). Located along the coast from the city centre, this memorial consists of two black walls along a lit pathway with the names of the victims and historical information about the Communist era in Estonia.

Visit Tallinn has a good guide on all the things that you can do whilst visiting the Estonian capital – their website is www.visittallinn.ee.

The Christmas Market (Jõuluturg)

In my opinion, Tallinn’s Christmas Market is one of best in Europe and certainly one that should be more widely known about!

The market sits in the heart of Tallinn in the Town Hall Square, home to the oldest town hall in northern Europe, and has a wide selection of market stalls, food stands and more!

A visit to the market will be accompanied by the sounds of Estonian carol singers, the aroma of Glögi (mulled wine) and the endless Christmas lights adorning all of the stalls.

The Christmas Tree at the centre of the market is of particular note, as Tallinn was the first place to display a public Christmas tree, having done so since 1441!

The market is the perfect place to spend the evening in the Estonian snow and is an absolute must-do in Tallinn in December!

Where to eat

If there is one place in Tallinn that I could recommend, it would have to be RØST Bakery in Rotermanni. This small local bakery is often so busy with locals and visitors alike that it can be hard to get a seat at peak times, but trust me it is worth the wait!

For the more discerning traveller, I can recommend the Estonian Burger Factory and La Prima Pizza in Vanalinn. La Prima Pizza is right in the heart of the city and has a very cosy atmosphere inside – just what you need after a few hours in the Estonian cold!

In December, there are also plenty of places to eat out in and around Tallinn’s Christmas Market!

The local beers in Estonia are A Le Coq, Viru and Alexander. Estonian beer is popular with the neighbouring Finns, as it is a lot cheaper than beer in their country!

Where to stay

I chose to stay at the Park Inn by Radisson Central Tallinn on Narva mnt. This hotel is well located both for the Old Town and for public transport links to elsewhere in Tallinn and the surrounding area. It also has cafes such as RØST and Caffeine located nearby for an easy breakfast, if hotel breakfasts aren’t your thing.

I considered a number of hotels in and around Tallinn for my visit. As I visited in 2022 and a number of new hotels have opened since then, it’s best to have a good shop around! Hotels nearer or within the Old Town, or in the Rotermanni district, will serve you well on your visit to Estonia!

The budget

As of October 2024, Wizz Air, Ryanair and airBaltic fly from London to Tallinn. There are flights from some European capitals but you can get there from most places via Riga, Stockholm and Warsaw. You can also get to Tallinn easily from Helsinki by ferry, which enables connections from Helsinki Airport.

Flights to Tallinn vary greatly in price depending on the time of year. It is best to keep your options open in terms of dates, flight times and consider indirect flights. I paid €60 for a return flight in December, although flights at all times of year, depending on availability, can often be as high as over €300.

I paid £170 for three nights room only at the Park Inn, which was great value for money. In a similar way to flights, there are often fluctuations in hotel prices across Tallinn throughout the year, although this is less common now with new hotels opening. You should be always be able to find a hotel that represents good value for money.

If you are planning on visiting several of Tallinn’s museums during your stay, the Tallinn Card represents very good value for money. It includes travel on Tallinn’s comprehensive public transport network, which only improves the offer. The Visit Tallinn website offers a discount on the card if bought online and also has a calculator to see which card is the best value for money for you. More information about the Tallinn Card can be found at https://www.visittallinn.ee/eng/visitor/tallinn-card/tallinn-card/what-is-tallinn-card.

…and finally, a quick FYI

It is mandatory by law in Estonia for pedestrians to wear reflectors whilst out in public, particularly in darker hours and in winter. Reflectors are available at the arrivals supermarket at Tallinn Airport and at all major shops. From experience, it appears that this law is not particularly well enforced, but I’ll leave it there!


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